Three Stages of the Raw water Pump Repair

To rehash, here is the raw water pump from our Perkins 4-107. Very grungy, right?

Here it is all dissembled and sandblasted. Take note f the damage I caused removing on of the seals. It is to the left of center.

I had some chrome paint at work, so after priming it I painted it all shiny. Whether it is durable, that remains to be seen.

Stupid photo is on its side. Orrrrr, maybe the blogger is stupid. Only true Philosophers  can solve that mystery. At the 6 o'clock position (at the bottom of the inner circle) you'll notice a dark area. That is my repair using a product called Belzona. I have damaged stuff before and have had to effect repairs. Still waiting on locating someone who wants to sell me a repair kit.

Perkin 4-107 raw water pump removal and overhaul

Here is the pump removed and at my work bench at work. (I only work at it on my lunch hour). The impeller looks to be in good shape but the real reason for this picture is so that I have a record of the direction the impeller vanes have to face.

The impeller is out. I can't see how one can remove the impeller with the pump still attached to the engine. Perhaps it can be done but the hour I spent trying didn't work out in the least.

Here is a shot of the pump with the shaft and bearing pressed out And when I say pressed out, I mean I had to press them out with a hydraulic press. I will have a couple of rebuild kits on board, but my work on this tells me a complete spare pump must be available for repairs at sea.

This is a close up of the shaft hole with a back light trying to show you the damage caused by me while removing the seal. I chipped the seat where the seal sits. Poor design but I can remedy that.

Here is the pump and cover all sand blasted. The cover is just sitting on the pump. The pump has no guts, still trying to locate a parts supplier but strangely enough, not one Perkins dealer has got back to me yet after 5 days. I plan on researching the paint procedure. I would like to use a good primer on the brass body, then see if there is a home powder coating system for the actual paint job. I would like to get a Perkins blue so I can have a shiny part on my 1974 engine.

You see the damage on the left side of the recess in the pump? I did that with a hammer and punch, removing the seal. Looks bad and it is. But fortunately, or unfortunately, I have done this once or twice before as a marine engineer and it is repairable. I would normally secure a washer the same size in there, flip it over and apply a dab of Belzona Molecular Metal to it. Belzona is a resin type stuff that when cured, you can drill, thread and sand it. Won't be as tough as brass but it will give me a sealing lip to work with.

I am a cheap bastard and like doing things on my own. I have no problem with hiring people, I am going to pay someone to change my cutlass bearing after all, but I do like to save the cash. Sure I spend more time on stuff like this, but let me tell you, I will know every system once I work on it. I will have to know a lot just to be able to keep sailing after I retire in 3 1/2 years:)

raw water pump removal

Here is a great shot of our raw water pump taken by my wife Ellie. Her reasoning is that I am always in a conundrum on which way the impeller goes when I am re-assembling the unit. She is pretty smart. I could not pull the rubber impeller out.

Here is the ugly beast that purrs like a kitten.

If I couldn't remove the impeller, I removed the pump instead. Here it is on our dining room table. I am having troubled locating a rebuilt kit for it, but when I do, I will sandblast the exterior and paint it up nice. It will be the one shiny thing on the engine.

banking and sailing

This video explains how enslaved we are to the banks and the banking system. It explains how people like me, who only use banks as a clearing house for our paychecks, are not liked. (Though in fact, even though we are debt 'free', we are still trapped). It is a little frightening.

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Perkin 4-108 is winterized

Ahhh, it is done. My first inboard winterization is complete. there was some worries as we bought the boat and never ran the engine. It started up like a charm:) A bit of a panic when I couldn't find the shut off switch........didn't think that all the way through...lol

Seacocks and thruhulls.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/seacock_primer
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls
http://www.diybob.com/diySeacock.htm

I am in the process of changing all my seacocks and thruhulls just because I feel this is the weakest and most dangerous factor in our boats safety. Other that the sailing skills of the wife and I:)

I just learned through research that the thruhull fittings are made with a straight thread and the valves that are being sold have tapered threads. The two do not make a good combination. I have only bought the thruhulls and have not looked at the valves being sold at the chandleries yet. Here to hoping that they have straight threads.

What you see here is the bronze thru-hull, being held in place with duct tape from the outside. I had to use a Dremmel to cut out the old fitting and clear more fiberglass out of the way.

I have made a 1/2" plywood backing plate, slightly larger in diameter than the base of the seacock. My wife 'painted' the backing plate with resin to seal it from water. The next phase is to make resin thickened to the consistency of peanut butter and mount it to the uneven hull, insuring it is perpendicular to the thru-hull. By perpendicular I mean the plate and thru-hull threads have to be 90 degrees from each other in order to get the best seal between the backing plate and the base of the seacock.

When the backing plate is cured in place, I will remove the thru-hull fitting and put a bead of Silkaflex in the groove in its base to seal it. Then I insert it in the hole in the hull then have my wife spin on the seacock, (also after putting a bead of Silkflex on its base), ensuring the handle has clearance to open and close with obstruction.

I will then tighten the whole system from the outside. There is no obvious way to grab and tighten the thru-hull without a special tool, a tapered plug wrench with two slots milled in its sited to match the two tabs INSIDE the thru-hull. Cost is approximately $50.

Now, as I am a cheap bastard, I made my own from a 9/16 deep socket and cut a slot in the end.

Socket was an old find at a yard sale (less than $10 for the set). The benefit of the store bought one is that as its tapered it will fit multiple sized thru-hulls while mine is only good for that one size (FYI, its a 3/4" fitting).

We found mascot? Plus thruhull and sea cock replacement.

Since we own a Seafarer, I think its only fitting that Seafarer matches are the only official matches allowed on the boat!

The matches are a match for this, a brass oil lamp. "Oil lamp?" you say, "Thats old school!". But the beauty of an oil lamp is that it does not draw battery power! On a sailboat at anchor or at sea, one has to be miserly with power consumption.

It has been a frustrating four weeks working on the boat. We would get down there, work one day then life would kick us in the face and before you knew it a week would go by before we see her (the boat) again.

It has been slow progress changing the engine cooling water inlet thruhull and sea cock. what with grinding away at the hull to make room for the backing plate. Then Sunday, I ran out of resin $$$$. Like I said, slow. In my defense, this is my first thruhull/sea cock replacement and as it is such a critical piece of equipment it will be done right and way over engineered. When I am done with this, you could set off a tactical nuke in the boat and the thruhull, sea cock and the reinforced section of hull will remain.

Running out of resin wasn't such a bad thing though. The wife and I chased down many leaks and sealed them up. We had some massive rain and they were easy to find.

Speaking of the wife, she is a trooper. I was on the ground strategizing my next move (Ok, Ok, I was playing with the portable generator), and when I boarded the boat my lovely wife was upside down, head buried in the engine room bilge cleaning it out. She came out oily and grimy. She was the most beautiful sight in the world. How many wives would do that?

Now that we found the battery charger for the camera, I will document the thruhull and sea cock replacement.